The next few days we would travel from Cape town to Port Elizabeth taking a rather round about route at the beginning only to rejoin the Garden Route at Wilderness. Our first stop Franschoek, a lovely wine region founded by the Heugonots. We were lucky enough to get a reservation at La Petite Ferme, where we enjoyed a fabulous meal and lovely wine in a spectacular background of hills and vines whose leaves were turning red and yellow due to the impending autumn spell cast across the region... we enjoyedc teh garden before heading to our next destination. Our car ride took us around sloping hills, green valleys and plenty of curves which of course had me at my seat's edge. Cleber is most definitely a very competant and safe driver but there were defintely moments where his confidence and my position as passenger did not always go hand in hand. I so didn't want to become the nagging passenger so I sat back, took a deep breathe and let Cleber have his well deserved peace.
We were headed to Montagu, which I now kindly refer to as the one chapel town. I chose this little town as it was in the right direction towards the Garden Route, not too far from Franschoek and apparently according to the guide was knwn for its hot springs. We didn't see nor experience any hot springs, but did however manage to stay in one of the largest guest rooms I had ever seen with a bathroom that was quite literally the size of my Paris Apartment. We attempted to enjoy a bath, only to relize that there was no hot water. Romance was scratched for that evening... We headed out to dinner and were told that a must see was a local tree that was home to hundreds if not thousands of birds who resemble egrets. The smell certainly gave it away and the ground was no longer earth but white. Our guest house kindly reserved us a table at a local establishment and as we were exhausted we decided to attempt to get in a little earlier. Apparently a no go, as they only accepted a certain number of people per sitting. Mission aborted we tried a few other restaurants and were kindly denied immediate sitting because they were sooooo busy. It made Paris and New York seem simple. We eventually found ourselves in a simple Italian restaurant across the street and returned home fed and ready to dream our way into the morning. The morning arrived and thanks to the magnificent gardening effort of our patron we were greeted by a cacaphony of birds who were early risers and especially talented in the vocal department.
We had enjoyed our time but were eager to get back on the road as we had more terrain to explore and hadn't the slightest idea where we'd end up.
Tuesday, 21 April 2009
The adventure continues in South Africa
We made our flight and eventually landed in Cape Town at 4 in the afternoon and made ourt way directly to the Liberty House lodge where we were greeted by Ruth, the eclectic owner of the Inn for the past 4 years. Cape Town was a blur, we raced through taking pictures of the stadium at GreenPoint, where we made friends with the congolese security gaurds and Gertie, a self prounonced protector of the stadium, who lived in a box along the periphery of the stadium grounds. no one was off limits to us, we wanted and needed to know how everyone felt about the upcoming World Cup and did we get an earful.
Throughout our three day stay, we visited Camp's Bay, Long Street, attended a PremierLeague Under -19 soccer tournament as VIPs and enjoyed lunches and dinners at local establishments. As this was my second visit, I had some notion as to where we wanted to go and where we didn't, so I wasn't completely useless. One of my goals however was to make it to the top of Table Mountain, which by chance was walking distance from our Inn. Cleber and I succeeded in making time for Table Mountain, and I learned that my little darling has a small case of vertigo which made the ride up in the cable car that much more exciting. The views from teh top were breathtaking and we were certainly not the only ones with the same idea, you could literally spend hours hiking up there but we made a short loop took loads of photos and made our way back down the mountain. We had the luck of having a roof-top terrace at our hotel, so Cleber and I decided to but a few items and prepared a little evening apero before heading out to dinner. Cape town sparkled from where we stood, down below the city hummed while we enjoyed our bit of freedom from the reality that is South Africa. There were some funny moments, including Cleber leaving the Premier League match to go get his more powerful lens only to realise that he had left the room key with yours truly, during the final game I was joined by a young boy who literally attached himself to my hip and spent the rest of the game staring at me, and chatting me up about the game that we were all enjoying. His parents and friends thought he was out of his mind, but got a kick out of the fact that I was playing along. He was too cute a little curly haired Indian boy with an unsatiable curiosity. We made the most of every encounter and met some truly wonderful people that gave us hope for the future of South Africa and the success of the World Cup. Our latest adventure had just begun but things were looking up...
Throughout our three day stay, we visited Camp's Bay, Long Street, attended a PremierLeague Under -19 soccer tournament as VIPs and enjoyed lunches and dinners at local establishments. As this was my second visit, I had some notion as to where we wanted to go and where we didn't, so I wasn't completely useless. One of my goals however was to make it to the top of Table Mountain, which by chance was walking distance from our Inn. Cleber and I succeeded in making time for Table Mountain, and I learned that my little darling has a small case of vertigo which made the ride up in the cable car that much more exciting. The views from teh top were breathtaking and we were certainly not the only ones with the same idea, you could literally spend hours hiking up there but we made a short loop took loads of photos and made our way back down the mountain. We had the luck of having a roof-top terrace at our hotel, so Cleber and I decided to but a few items and prepared a little evening apero before heading out to dinner. Cape town sparkled from where we stood, down below the city hummed while we enjoyed our bit of freedom from the reality that is South Africa. There were some funny moments, including Cleber leaving the Premier League match to go get his more powerful lens only to realise that he had left the room key with yours truly, during the final game I was joined by a young boy who literally attached himself to my hip and spent the rest of the game staring at me, and chatting me up about the game that we were all enjoying. His parents and friends thought he was out of his mind, but got a kick out of the fact that I was playing along. He was too cute a little curly haired Indian boy with an unsatiable curiosity. We made the most of every encounter and met some truly wonderful people that gave us hope for the future of South Africa and the success of the World Cup. Our latest adventure had just begun but things were looking up...
Thursday, 16 April 2009
Da Plane Da Plane!
Over the past two evenings as we sat at dinner, we were entertained by a spectacular lightning shower along the horizon across the channel. Every time thanking Mother Nature that she hadn't rained on our own personal parade. Until of course the morning of our departure, in which the clouds began to form overhead and even though the wind would shift sending clouds scurrying away fromshore, the wind would then turn again. We were in a constant state of cat and mouse with the rain.
Julie had prepared a wonderful morning hike and breakfast at the tip of the island. We were to hike to the end of the island and the boat would join us and we would enjoy breakfast along the shore, followed by a snorkelling session in an area which was perfect for viewing a variety of fish species. We set out on our adventure, walking along the coastline that later that day would be underwater and unreachable otherwise. We admired corals, algae, various fish, snails, rock formations and natural pools formed by deep ravines along the cliffs.
We eventually made it to breakfast which consisted of our standard fare of fresh fruit, yogurt, muesli, tea, bacon, etc. We sat protected under a cliff as rain drops flittering down upon the already wet sand. With breakfast complete we continued to walk down the coast where we encountered a group of fisherman who were heading back to Mombassa after having spent 5 months fishing in the local waters. Knowing Julie, we were invited to view their bounty. We were witness to piles of sharks, rays, and other marine lying lifeless and covered in salt along the cliffs and under tents prepared to embark onto the Dau's, which are the local wooden sail boats. All this time, all I could think of was pirates. Somalie pirates had recently had made headlines due to the increased number of highjackings on the high seas. We were literally miles from the Somalie border and visions of me as a damsel in distress floated through my mind, then of course I was saved by Cleber's courageous efforts and we lived happily ever after.
But I digress, as the fun was just beginning as we were to leave later that day and just as we arrived back at the camp the skies opened up and we were living out Noah's arc in real time. It was an incredible show of force of nature, but this posed us with a very serious problem, as our thirteen seater plane would not be able to land on the sand, as it needed a tarmac which was located in Lamu, either reachable by speed boat, which would take 1 1/2 hours and we would arrived soaked and jittery, or by an even smaller plane which would take 10 minutes. Julie went into overdrive calling, negotiating and pleading on our behalf to get us evacuated as we had a 7am flight the next morning to Capetown and although not the end of the world, missing it would create a domino effect that would really interupt our trip. We chose the plane option as it was the simplest and safest option but would end up costing 30,000 schillings which seemed like a fortune but in the end came to about 300 euros and would save us from more headaches. Thankfully Julie assured us that this would be reimbursed.
Enter Charlie. With the skies having cleared Charlie, our adring pilot, agreed to come to our rescue with his little propeller 4 seater. He was a god. He had 30 minutes to spare and we had 20 minutes to get there. We literally flew into the boat, only to arrive at the shore and the "most expensive taxi" was not to be seen, so we quickly diverted our boat to the alternate shore where the more exclusive resort lay along the coast line where we could catch the taxi from there. We waded up to the shore and a comedy of errors ensued.
Julie was losing patience as we were having difficulty getting the boat close enough to the shore to be able to get off without finding ourselves chin deep in water and our luggage held abover our heads. At this point, Julie has located Charlie's plane as is approaching the landing strip and is standing on the boat waving her scarf, it was just like out of the movies. We finally make it ashore, a bit wet but running for the taxi, hand over the 4,000 schillings and race to the sand runway as Charlie would not wait much longer. We arrived of course just in the nick of time and were greeted by a very handsome pilot from South Africa who seemed to get a kick out of the fact that we were stranded and was as jolly as santa claus.
Once strapped in, we took off for the ride of our lives. I sat in the back with the luggage, Julie just up ahead and Cleber as co-pilot. I had never experienced anything as thrilling and beautiful as this plane ride. Charlie made sure to offer us a ride we'd never forget. He dipped down low enough along the waterway for us to wave to the boat that just minutes before had dropped us off at the shore, we continued to fluy quite low qlong the shores and across the mangroves lined up along shore and over wetlands that spread out like spilled milk. Cleber was even given the chance to "fly", needless to say he was estactic and even shared with me after we landed that he was so moved by the experience that he almost cried. I can't begin to explain just how poetic this voyage was, it was surreal, we were viewing one of the most beautiful spots in the world through the grace of this small vehical whichy allowed us to play god for a day. We glided, we swooped, went straight up and then leveled off. Our bodies and our minds pushed to their very limits. Time stood still. And then we landed. Only to be greeted by a family of baboons lying across the runway, this was most certainly Africa.
Julie had prepared a wonderful morning hike and breakfast at the tip of the island. We were to hike to the end of the island and the boat would join us and we would enjoy breakfast along the shore, followed by a snorkelling session in an area which was perfect for viewing a variety of fish species. We set out on our adventure, walking along the coastline that later that day would be underwater and unreachable otherwise. We admired corals, algae, various fish, snails, rock formations and natural pools formed by deep ravines along the cliffs.
We eventually made it to breakfast which consisted of our standard fare of fresh fruit, yogurt, muesli, tea, bacon, etc. We sat protected under a cliff as rain drops flittering down upon the already wet sand. With breakfast complete we continued to walk down the coast where we encountered a group of fisherman who were heading back to Mombassa after having spent 5 months fishing in the local waters. Knowing Julie, we were invited to view their bounty. We were witness to piles of sharks, rays, and other marine lying lifeless and covered in salt along the cliffs and under tents prepared to embark onto the Dau's, which are the local wooden sail boats. All this time, all I could think of was pirates. Somalie pirates had recently had made headlines due to the increased number of highjackings on the high seas. We were literally miles from the Somalie border and visions of me as a damsel in distress floated through my mind, then of course I was saved by Cleber's courageous efforts and we lived happily ever after.
But I digress, as the fun was just beginning as we were to leave later that day and just as we arrived back at the camp the skies opened up and we were living out Noah's arc in real time. It was an incredible show of force of nature, but this posed us with a very serious problem, as our thirteen seater plane would not be able to land on the sand, as it needed a tarmac which was located in Lamu, either reachable by speed boat, which would take 1 1/2 hours and we would arrived soaked and jittery, or by an even smaller plane which would take 10 minutes. Julie went into overdrive calling, negotiating and pleading on our behalf to get us evacuated as we had a 7am flight the next morning to Capetown and although not the end of the world, missing it would create a domino effect that would really interupt our trip. We chose the plane option as it was the simplest and safest option but would end up costing 30,000 schillings which seemed like a fortune but in the end came to about 300 euros and would save us from more headaches. Thankfully Julie assured us that this would be reimbursed.
Enter Charlie. With the skies having cleared Charlie, our adring pilot, agreed to come to our rescue with his little propeller 4 seater. He was a god. He had 30 minutes to spare and we had 20 minutes to get there. We literally flew into the boat, only to arrive at the shore and the "most expensive taxi" was not to be seen, so we quickly diverted our boat to the alternate shore where the more exclusive resort lay along the coast line where we could catch the taxi from there. We waded up to the shore and a comedy of errors ensued.
Julie was losing patience as we were having difficulty getting the boat close enough to the shore to be able to get off without finding ourselves chin deep in water and our luggage held abover our heads. At this point, Julie has located Charlie's plane as is approaching the landing strip and is standing on the boat waving her scarf, it was just like out of the movies. We finally make it ashore, a bit wet but running for the taxi, hand over the 4,000 schillings and race to the sand runway as Charlie would not wait much longer. We arrived of course just in the nick of time and were greeted by a very handsome pilot from South Africa who seemed to get a kick out of the fact that we were stranded and was as jolly as santa claus.
Once strapped in, we took off for the ride of our lives. I sat in the back with the luggage, Julie just up ahead and Cleber as co-pilot. I had never experienced anything as thrilling and beautiful as this plane ride. Charlie made sure to offer us a ride we'd never forget. He dipped down low enough along the waterway for us to wave to the boat that just minutes before had dropped us off at the shore, we continued to fluy quite low qlong the shores and across the mangroves lined up along shore and over wetlands that spread out like spilled milk. Cleber was even given the chance to "fly", needless to say he was estactic and even shared with me after we landed that he was so moved by the experience that he almost cried. I can't begin to explain just how poetic this voyage was, it was surreal, we were viewing one of the most beautiful spots in the world through the grace of this small vehical whichy allowed us to play god for a day. We glided, we swooped, went straight up and then leveled off. Our bodies and our minds pushed to their very limits. Time stood still. And then we landed. Only to be greeted by a family of baboons lying across the runway, this was most certainly Africa.
Sunday, 12 April 2009
The Women of Kiwaiyu
We were up at the crack of dawn, I actaully saw the dawn cracking as the open air hut allowed for every anaimal noise and ray of light to enter into our consciousness. Although Cleber had gone to the beach to shoot early morning "teh best light" shots with flip flops and crabs, I wandered down to the main house only to be convinced by Julie to join her for a swim. The water was bathtub warm and left me even more relaxed than my little love hut evening sleep. We grabbed cleber and headed back for breakfast and then we were off.
The women of Kiwaiyu ranged in age but they are all Muslim and dressed in island traditional dress which consists of a few pieces of fabric which serve as a sarong and top. The name of this dress escapes me, but I will find it out as details are everything in this story. We spent the day in their workshop admiring the handicrafts which are for the most part beads, (think small macaroni) which are used to make curtains and bracelets and flowers, where are used as clips, and mobiles. A few children were present and so very very curious as to who we were. Julie took over and was talking business with the women running the shop, while Cleber shot photos and I played assistant. I even was coherced into trying on a pair of orange linen striped pants with a charming fringe, which were a hit and yet another 500 schillings was offered to the workshop. God knows when I'm going use these pants. Should you see them on me, be kind. After the workshop shoot, we followed the women deeper into the villlage to visit with them in their homes so that Cleber could take shots of them in a more domestic setting. The people of Kiwaiyu are not poor, they live simply and there is an important difference as they are healthy and are able to provide for their family while living off the land and from the various products that they receive from Lamu. Any extra money they received goes directly to helping their family build brick homes as opposed to the wooden and metal boxes that some continue to inhabit, as well funny enough they relish the opportunity to buy their daughters or themselves gold earrings. Fancy that.
We were offered coconuts fresh with coconut juice which we gladly enjoyed, it was all a little surreal. Elspecially watching them cut them open with machetes. We slowly made our way out of the village, not before Julie had the chance to talk with some of her key artists that apparently given an order to Mike, even after she had left a deposit but was having difficulty transferring the money. It seems that money transfers are one of the obstacles that Julie faces and which gives her countless headaches. If only paypal existed in Kenya. If anyone has any good ideas, feel free to let me know how we can help her!
Back at the camp, we ate a lovely lunch prepared by the two girls from the village. We were to head off shortly after lunch to view turtle eggs that apparently were hatching along the coast. Due to a comedy of errors, it didn't happen. But we had a wonderful time walking along the beach as night fell. With only the stars to accompany us home. Dinner was a special affair as they had set up a table with the chairs having been set up to resemble a head table at a marriage or state dinner, and mattresses just nearby where we could laydown and watch the stars. We dined on fresh crab and enjoyed fresh fruit juices of mango and papaya that had been made that day.... it felt good to be alive.
The women of Kiwaiyu ranged in age but they are all Muslim and dressed in island traditional dress which consists of a few pieces of fabric which serve as a sarong and top. The name of this dress escapes me, but I will find it out as details are everything in this story. We spent the day in their workshop admiring the handicrafts which are for the most part beads, (think small macaroni) which are used to make curtains and bracelets and flowers, where are used as clips, and mobiles. A few children were present and so very very curious as to who we were. Julie took over and was talking business with the women running the shop, while Cleber shot photos and I played assistant. I even was coherced into trying on a pair of orange linen striped pants with a charming fringe, which were a hit and yet another 500 schillings was offered to the workshop. God knows when I'm going use these pants. Should you see them on me, be kind. After the workshop shoot, we followed the women deeper into the villlage to visit with them in their homes so that Cleber could take shots of them in a more domestic setting. The people of Kiwaiyu are not poor, they live simply and there is an important difference as they are healthy and are able to provide for their family while living off the land and from the various products that they receive from Lamu. Any extra money they received goes directly to helping their family build brick homes as opposed to the wooden and metal boxes that some continue to inhabit, as well funny enough they relish the opportunity to buy their daughters or themselves gold earrings. Fancy that.
We were offered coconuts fresh with coconut juice which we gladly enjoyed, it was all a little surreal. Elspecially watching them cut them open with machetes. We slowly made our way out of the village, not before Julie had the chance to talk with some of her key artists that apparently given an order to Mike, even after she had left a deposit but was having difficulty transferring the money. It seems that money transfers are one of the obstacles that Julie faces and which gives her countless headaches. If only paypal existed in Kenya. If anyone has any good ideas, feel free to let me know how we can help her!
Back at the camp, we ate a lovely lunch prepared by the two girls from the village. We were to head off shortly after lunch to view turtle eggs that apparently were hatching along the coast. Due to a comedy of errors, it didn't happen. But we had a wonderful time walking along the beach as night fell. With only the stars to accompany us home. Dinner was a special affair as they had set up a table with the chairs having been set up to resemble a head table at a marriage or state dinner, and mattresses just nearby where we could laydown and watch the stars. We dined on fresh crab and enjoyed fresh fruit juices of mango and papaya that had been made that day.... it felt good to be alive.
The honeymoon before the wedding
We left for Kiwaiyu on Saturday April 4th. Julie, Cleber and I took off into the friendly skies and 1 h and 50 minutes later we were in paradise.
The take off was an adventure in this 13 seater, needless to say I didn't even hint to my mother just what type of airplane we going to be boarding as she would have enjoyed the wait for my return. And what a mother doesn't know can't hurt her right, mom? The pilot had a special suprise for us in that he flew right over the National Park which was filled with animals including ostrichs and giraffes. The view of Kenya from the air is truly breathtaking as you can see for miles across the plains. We flew up along the coast and viewed both Mt. Kenya and Kilamanjaro from our seats. After regaining my breath, I was truly just able to sit back and relax. And then we landed. The airport was a sandy stretch of land with a small open air hut. No lights, no airline employees and certainly no tarmac which would prove our demise come our departure. We exited the plane and got into our waiting landrover only to be taken 1 km away to a waiting boat. It was by far the most expensive "taxi" ride as it cost 4000 schillings, roughly 40 euros. When they got you they got you you just grin and bear it. The motor boat took us to Mike's camp where we would be staying a few hours to allow for the tide to rise so that we could eventually arrive at our camp, Champli. The first thing we did after having descended the boat, was to race to the other side of the mountain to go snorkeling along the coral reef. Julie is a mad woman about water- she swims every morning without fail in Nairobi so here was a literal paradise for her and she allowed herself no limits. We were natually little prunes by the time the three day adventure was done. Dinner at Mike's consisted of a table laid out in this open area with candle light and lovely dinner companions, including Mike himslef, Rosie,the wandering blond who was currently working a season, and Dre, who we believe is on a constant vacation and is apparently married to a man with a helicopter. Dinner was a king fish grilled and marinated in this amazing sauce, which of course only tastes as good when you're on a island in the middle of the Indian Ocean. Dinner ended and we were very eager to get to our own camp to call it a night.
With everything reloaded onto the boat we headed out into the night to our camp. It was everything we could have hoped for an then some. It is a community camp run and benefitted by the community of people who live on the island. Simple as it was beautiful due to the nature and animal life that surrounded us. Cleber and I settled into our romantic and luxurious hut and drifted to sleep under the mosquito netting and the sound of the channel waves lapping against the boat in the lagoon. I cannot imagine a more wonderful honeymoon and for all intents and purposes it was to be ours. We had just decided to skip the marriage.
The take off was an adventure in this 13 seater, needless to say I didn't even hint to my mother just what type of airplane we going to be boarding as she would have enjoyed the wait for my return. And what a mother doesn't know can't hurt her right, mom? The pilot had a special suprise for us in that he flew right over the National Park which was filled with animals including ostrichs and giraffes. The view of Kenya from the air is truly breathtaking as you can see for miles across the plains. We flew up along the coast and viewed both Mt. Kenya and Kilamanjaro from our seats. After regaining my breath, I was truly just able to sit back and relax. And then we landed. The airport was a sandy stretch of land with a small open air hut. No lights, no airline employees and certainly no tarmac which would prove our demise come our departure. We exited the plane and got into our waiting landrover only to be taken 1 km away to a waiting boat. It was by far the most expensive "taxi" ride as it cost 4000 schillings, roughly 40 euros. When they got you they got you you just grin and bear it. The motor boat took us to Mike's camp where we would be staying a few hours to allow for the tide to rise so that we could eventually arrive at our camp, Champli. The first thing we did after having descended the boat, was to race to the other side of the mountain to go snorkeling along the coral reef. Julie is a mad woman about water- she swims every morning without fail in Nairobi so here was a literal paradise for her and she allowed herself no limits. We were natually little prunes by the time the three day adventure was done. Dinner at Mike's consisted of a table laid out in this open area with candle light and lovely dinner companions, including Mike himslef, Rosie,the wandering blond who was currently working a season, and Dre, who we believe is on a constant vacation and is apparently married to a man with a helicopter. Dinner was a king fish grilled and marinated in this amazing sauce, which of course only tastes as good when you're on a island in the middle of the Indian Ocean. Dinner ended and we were very eager to get to our own camp to call it a night.
With everything reloaded onto the boat we headed out into the night to our camp. It was everything we could have hoped for an then some. It is a community camp run and benefitted by the community of people who live on the island. Simple as it was beautiful due to the nature and animal life that surrounded us. Cleber and I settled into our romantic and luxurious hut and drifted to sleep under the mosquito netting and the sound of the channel waves lapping against the boat in the lagoon. I cannot imagine a more wonderful honeymoon and for all intents and purposes it was to be ours. We had just decided to skip the marriage.
Lip to Lip with Kelly the Giraffe
Moses, Cleber, Moses #2 and I had a little make-out session with Kelly the Giraffe at the Giraffe center in Karen. The center allows you to get up and close and quite personal with the giraffes and is an experience I'll certainly never forget, nor will you after seeing these photos. They speak volumes. We even had the chance to visit with the male zebra, responsible for the two baby giraffes who were carousing with the other giraffe's in the distance. His name, Jock. Again, a site to behold. Yes, I fed him and yes I was so nervous I squealed. Cleber squealed silently but I could tell in his eyes that even he felt totally belittled by this majestic animal. Imagine the tallest man in the world, times by two and his head in dipping into your hand with a very large black tongue (whose saliva is a natural antiseptic).
Introducing Siyana
Cleber and I had heard about an elephant orphanage in Karen, so at the end of teh day we made our way with Amos to discover this nursery for abandoned elephants and rhinos. We arrived and were greeted by a lovely man who naturally proposed us to visit the nursery, as well as the opportunity to adopt an elephant as the entrance fee just also happened to be directly associated with the adoption fee. Cleber and I enthusiatically agreed and set off to choose our child. We were brought to a small open area where the elephants woulf be passing through as they were coming in to eat. Within moments a scuffle was heard and about 9 small elephants charged our way and did a little turn about as if on the cat walk and made their way to their stalls which they all knew by heart. Then the older elephants appeared, ever though only 2-3 yrs old they still gave my heart a jump. The orphange is a part of the National Park and the workers spend the night in the stalls feeding the animals throughout the night. These small elephants are up to 2 years old, any time after 2 years they are then transfered to another area where they are slowly re-introduced into the wild. In a small pen, 3 2-3yr old elephants were gathered together and being fed by the park workers, they apparently are kept together as if separated they begin to cry. It's in this pen where we fell in love with Siyana a young 2 year old elephant who had been found at 1 month in a well. A hyena had bitten off a portion of her trunk as it was the only piece of her to remain above ground. Needless to say we welcome her into our home and are hearts... We have pictures so please enjoy them once we get them posted.
Cleber for President
it was if we were driving in a motorcade, no matter what form of transport, whether taxi, or land rover, Cleber managed a smile and a wave for everyone he passed. It was truly as if he was campaigning for Mr. Kenya. And the most wonderful part is that people waved back. Another defining moment came when we visited the Kiberra slums, which apparently hold a quarter pf Nairobi's inhabitants. And where Uniqueco sources flip flops which clog up the surrounding areas and the paths within the slum. It is located at the base of what once was a thriving Ddm, where a sailing club once flourished and boats could be heard trailing waterskiers. Today it is entirely covered in trach and litter. You traverse the area holding your breath, not necessarily due to the smell but trying to remain light in your feet as you can feel teh ground beneath you swelling as if on a waterbed. Cleber was the pied piper and he engaged with the children as if they were his own to care for and protect. Once he started taking photos he was mobbed and all the children were desperate to see themselves on the "big screen' and to offer themselves, all the while posing and laughing. Anytime Cleber tried to take a serious photo, he would have his posse of children who would line up so very close to the shot that he frequently had about 50 extra arms and legs to maneuver about. I felt very honored to have been allowed to visit the home of these Kenyan's, who although very poor, were extremely generous and kind to us. One family invited me to view teir dinner which had not yet been cooked but consisted of a plate of catfish which I cannot and do not which to know where they caught it. Babies, everywhere, but also plenty of smiles.
We were accompanied by Nadeen, Edward and James, whose brother lived in Kiberra and who led the effort to gather up the thongs. Of which they collect about 600kilos a month. It just goes to show you the extent of this particular pollutant and the importance of uniqueco's work. by no means is this the only pollution that you find lying along the paths and open areas, there are plastic bottles and bags that would literally cause you to stop wanting to use them ever again, I know that I will certainly change my habits in order to eliminate one more plastic bottle landing in a trash heap.
Kiberra was not the only slum that we visited but it certainly stood out as it was most certainly an unfit place for any human to live. Dagareth was another such slum but it resembled more a flea market and the individuals living there were very aggressive and were not amused that Cleber wanted to take photos of their feet nor their stands selling flip flops.
We had one more adventure left before heading home....
We were accompanied by Nadeen, Edward and James, whose brother lived in Kiberra and who led the effort to gather up the thongs. Of which they collect about 600kilos a month. It just goes to show you the extent of this particular pollutant and the importance of uniqueco's work. by no means is this the only pollution that you find lying along the paths and open areas, there are plastic bottles and bags that would literally cause you to stop wanting to use them ever again, I know that I will certainly change my habits in order to eliminate one more plastic bottle landing in a trash heap.
Kiberra was not the only slum that we visited but it certainly stood out as it was most certainly an unfit place for any human to live. Dagareth was another such slum but it resembled more a flea market and the individuals living there were very aggressive and were not amused that Cleber wanted to take photos of their feet nor their stands selling flip flops.
We had one more adventure left before heading home....
Smile you're in Kenya
After 8 hours of the most restful airline flight that I've ever taken in my 35 years, we arrived in Kenya. After realizng that we were in the wrong line we get into the appropriate line for those "who were smart enough to get their visa ahea of time" and decended the escalator only to be greeted with a very large and colorful sign, which read "Smile, you're in Kenya". So I did. And I had every reason to do so as just as we were approaching the luggage belt, here comes my bag as if on cue.
We were greeted at the airport by Amos, Mr. Smiley's brother who was supposed to pick us up. I was so hoping to be pichked up by Smiley, but it was not to be. We however had a chance to see Smiley in a drive by hello, and he looked like Alphapha, with a very bright smile.
Amos took us directly to Milele, in Karen, an upscale suburb,where Julie Church lived, and where we were to stay before leaving for the northern islands near Somalia. Milele is her parents home that she now lives in with her husband Edward. Julie is of course the inspiration and the founder of Uniqueco and a little bird of a woman with a tiger's spirit and energy. I was so looking forward to meeting this woman who I had spent hours and days emailing and speaking to on the phone.
She arrived and she was everything I expected and then some. So warm and so kind. I found out that she is a fourth generation Kenyan and her family coincidentally lives all very near to her, aka next door and across the street. For your information she had trained as a marine biologist, and is passionate about marine life and the role that humans can play in saving further destruction to oceans and coastlines, before landing rather unexpectantly in her role at Uniqueco.
Julie informed us that we would actually be staying at their house which was located across the street. A beautiful A framed cottage, with a large sitting room, and a beautiful four poster bed. We had our very own Kenyan man to attend to us and our needs. His name Moses, his skin black as the night and with a beaming smile and a muical ear. He and I recorder a little ditty for you that will be attached shortly. Note to all of you: This was totally spontaneous and unrehearsed and yes I do make a complete fool of myself, but hey Smile, I'm in Kenya. We laso had Simon and Stephan as night gaurds which was a pleasure but certainly lent a 'oh my lord I'm so out of my element' feel to the whole experience.
We put down our belongings, and didn't waste a moment before heading to Marulo Studios where Julie runs Uniqueco and where we were to have lunch at Bliss Cafe. Whe you arrive, it looks like a small white house surrounded by bougainvillea and there is a small gift shop with hand made items including a large collection of the items made by the artists of Uniqueco. We sat down to lunch on this lovely terrace, where we nibbled on bruscetta and a lovely pear and ginger drink. It seems that fruit juices were a popular beverage on most every menu we found. Needless to say we took in our fare share of vitamins. Towards the end of our lunch we were greeted by Nadeen who recently joined Julie as head of Production and he was to assist us in understanding the lay of the land. We spent a few hours taking photos of the artisans working on various pieces that were bound for orders that had come in from around the world. We had teh chance to actually meet and speak with many of those who were working there and learn a little about each and how they ended up working at Uniqeco. Most all came to be here through connections whether through friends or family having been recommended. However, each and every one of these artists are indeed skilled and thus add tremendous value to the creation and beauty of the Uniqueco collection, whethere a flower mobile or a sculpted giraffe, this is not an amateur operation, these pieces are museum worthy. I do hope that you'll ask me to show you the pieces that we're bringing back - I am so very proud to have had the opportunity to meet these artists, and I hope that you will consider ordering from their website, www.uniqueco.com.
After a very busy afternoon, we were invited to join Julie and her husband for dinner at their house where we would continue to dine during our stay, and for which we were extremely grateful as they are truly a magical couple.
We were greeted at the airport by Amos, Mr. Smiley's brother who was supposed to pick us up. I was so hoping to be pichked up by Smiley, but it was not to be. We however had a chance to see Smiley in a drive by hello, and he looked like Alphapha, with a very bright smile.
Amos took us directly to Milele, in Karen, an upscale suburb,where Julie Church lived, and where we were to stay before leaving for the northern islands near Somalia. Milele is her parents home that she now lives in with her husband Edward. Julie is of course the inspiration and the founder of Uniqueco and a little bird of a woman with a tiger's spirit and energy. I was so looking forward to meeting this woman who I had spent hours and days emailing and speaking to on the phone.
She arrived and she was everything I expected and then some. So warm and so kind. I found out that she is a fourth generation Kenyan and her family coincidentally lives all very near to her, aka next door and across the street. For your information she had trained as a marine biologist, and is passionate about marine life and the role that humans can play in saving further destruction to oceans and coastlines, before landing rather unexpectantly in her role at Uniqueco.
Julie informed us that we would actually be staying at their house which was located across the street. A beautiful A framed cottage, with a large sitting room, and a beautiful four poster bed. We had our very own Kenyan man to attend to us and our needs. His name Moses, his skin black as the night and with a beaming smile and a muical ear. He and I recorder a little ditty for you that will be attached shortly. Note to all of you: This was totally spontaneous and unrehearsed and yes I do make a complete fool of myself, but hey Smile, I'm in Kenya. We laso had Simon and Stephan as night gaurds which was a pleasure but certainly lent a 'oh my lord I'm so out of my element' feel to the whole experience.
We put down our belongings, and didn't waste a moment before heading to Marulo Studios where Julie runs Uniqueco and where we were to have lunch at Bliss Cafe. Whe you arrive, it looks like a small white house surrounded by bougainvillea and there is a small gift shop with hand made items including a large collection of the items made by the artists of Uniqueco. We sat down to lunch on this lovely terrace, where we nibbled on bruscetta and a lovely pear and ginger drink. It seems that fruit juices were a popular beverage on most every menu we found. Needless to say we took in our fare share of vitamins. Towards the end of our lunch we were greeted by Nadeen who recently joined Julie as head of Production and he was to assist us in understanding the lay of the land. We spent a few hours taking photos of the artisans working on various pieces that were bound for orders that had come in from around the world. We had teh chance to actually meet and speak with many of those who were working there and learn a little about each and how they ended up working at Uniqeco. Most all came to be here through connections whether through friends or family having been recommended. However, each and every one of these artists are indeed skilled and thus add tremendous value to the creation and beauty of the Uniqueco collection, whethere a flower mobile or a sculpted giraffe, this is not an amateur operation, these pieces are museum worthy. I do hope that you'll ask me to show you the pieces that we're bringing back - I am so very proud to have had the opportunity to meet these artists, and I hope that you will consider ordering from their website, www.uniqueco.com.
After a very busy afternoon, we were invited to join Julie and her husband for dinner at their house where we would continue to dine during our stay, and for which we were extremely grateful as they are truly a magical couple.
Thursday, 2 April 2009
The big Day
I won't bore you with the details, BUT, it was a first class day all the way. Complete with lunch at Harrod's. But I've got to tell you about the BEST part.
We arrived at Heathrow in plenty of time, and proceeded to the Virgin Atlantic check-in area. We approached a lovely woman who signaled to us that we should proceed directly to the machines to scan in our passports, after a few unsuccessful attempts it was apparent that was not working. At this point I hadn't really paid attention to the type of tickets that our fabulous travel agent had reserved for us, BUT they were Premium, Business Class! By any name it has a lovely ring to it EXCEPT that there had been a change. WE HAD BEEN UPGRADED TO UPPER CLASS!!! I was stunned and had the pleasure of enjoying it 2x over, as I had to translate for Cleber, as he definitely sensed that something was happeninf\g but had no idea what it was. So needless to say we passed through all the VIP entrances, the security check was never so enjoyable and made our way to a little resto to grab a drink - as we weren't cool enough to be let into the lounge as we were merely upgrades, but who cares! We were flying first class!!! This trip was definitely starting off well.
Champagne was called for, and between the adorable staff, our reclining beds, we were off. 8 hours later we arrived in Nairobi only to be greeted with a sign that read, "Smile you're in Kenya". And that we were from ear to ear.
Thanks to Linda Contract of Contract Travel, based in Los Angeles, who was our fearless travel agent and recently inducted into a Travel Agent Hall of Fame organization. I can personally vouch as to why! Congrats Linda!
We arrived at Heathrow in plenty of time, and proceeded to the Virgin Atlantic check-in area. We approached a lovely woman who signaled to us that we should proceed directly to the machines to scan in our passports, after a few unsuccessful attempts it was apparent that was not working. At this point I hadn't really paid attention to the type of tickets that our fabulous travel agent had reserved for us, BUT they were Premium, Business Class! By any name it has a lovely ring to it EXCEPT that there had been a change. WE HAD BEEN UPGRADED TO UPPER CLASS!!! I was stunned and had the pleasure of enjoying it 2x over, as I had to translate for Cleber, as he definitely sensed that something was happeninf\g but had no idea what it was. So needless to say we passed through all the VIP entrances, the security check was never so enjoyable and made our way to a little resto to grab a drink - as we weren't cool enough to be let into the lounge as we were merely upgrades, but who cares! We were flying first class!!! This trip was definitely starting off well.
Champagne was called for, and between the adorable staff, our reclining beds, we were off. 8 hours later we arrived in Nairobi only to be greeted with a sign that read, "Smile you're in Kenya". And that we were from ear to ear.
Thanks to Linda Contract of Contract Travel, based in Los Angeles, who was our fearless travel agent and recently inducted into a Travel Agent Hall of Fame organization. I can personally vouch as to why! Congrats Linda!
Monday, March 30 2009
Today was museum day with Cheryl, otherwise known as teh Tate to Tate. We began by meeting her in Sloan Square, where she lives with her fiance Ryan in a charming one bedroom garden apartment with their dog Reggie, a handsome King Charles Spaniel. After arriving a wee bit in advance we were greeting by a wet haired Cheryl who was still in the midst of getting ready. She gave us a little tour and we set out to get some breakfast while Cheryl prepared herself and we awaited the arrival of Ryan and Reggie from the vet. W e ended up at a restaurant cafe, called the Botanist, which was recommended by Cheryl. It was every bit as stylish and cool as Cheryl promised. We began to order a ligth farre of croissants and pain aux raisins, but I happened to remember Cleber's request to try a typical English breakfast and so we scratched the breakfast a a la francaise and went straight for the artery clogging fare. I however excused my self from the experience and ordered granola and yogurt.
The English breakfast arrived momentarily and was most certainly the classiest presentation of lard and oil that I'd ever laid eyes on, it included scrambled eggs, several types of sausage, toast, portabello mushroom and bacon. Glorious, almost made me wish that I'd ordered it myself.
Once finished, we headed back to Cheryl's for the much anticipated presentation of Reggie who we had never met before. And he was sooo worth it. What an absolute love, and wth plenty of kisses to share. We could hardly tear oursleves apart but culture was calling. We all piled in to Ryan's Saab and set up top down to enjoy some indoor time, much to the chagrin of Cleber who could only dream of walking outside and taking photos. But it was the Tate!
We did the whirlwind tour of teh Tate Britain and got so lucky having caught the ferry just in time to continue to our next port of call, the Tate Modern. We viewed a photography exhibit by an American women artist, Roni. Did we understand half of it, no, but did I get a kick out of seeing stills of Phillip from Guiding Light, yes indeed.
We made our way slowly down the various levels of the Tate modern and made our way outside to find a little lunch. In keeping with teh English tradition we passed by the Globe Theatre and headed for the Anchor, on eof the oldest pubs in England, apparently it was a watering hole for Ole Shakespeare. Where we proceeded to order fish and ships, and all the while my body screaming to be saved from the batter fried fish and fries, but when in Rome.
We finished off our meals on the terrace of the pub and proceeded downstairs where we headed across the Millenium Bridge, where we would find ourselves in front of St. paul's cather\dral another important point of interest on our tour of London. We parted ways with Cheryl and proceeded to the Barbocan Center to meet up with Lara, for a sweet break before we retraced our steps back to the Thames to view the Tower Bridge.
Several hundred photos later we were heading back home and preparing for our last evening home. Once in the tube, I happened to sit next to a lovely Indian man who just happened to be born in Nairobi and who was a real treat to meet as he spoke so highly of the city and wished us well. At dinner that evening at the Banana tree, we ended up with a brazilian server, signs everywhere that our trip was going to be a fantastic one.
We returned home to find Sanj watching 24, we joined in and fell asleep within minutes after we laid of heads to rest. Only a few hours left before our big day.
The English breakfast arrived momentarily and was most certainly the classiest presentation of lard and oil that I'd ever laid eyes on, it included scrambled eggs, several types of sausage, toast, portabello mushroom and bacon. Glorious, almost made me wish that I'd ordered it myself.
Once finished, we headed back to Cheryl's for the much anticipated presentation of Reggie who we had never met before. And he was sooo worth it. What an absolute love, and wth plenty of kisses to share. We could hardly tear oursleves apart but culture was calling. We all piled in to Ryan's Saab and set up top down to enjoy some indoor time, much to the chagrin of Cleber who could only dream of walking outside and taking photos. But it was the Tate!
We did the whirlwind tour of teh Tate Britain and got so lucky having caught the ferry just in time to continue to our next port of call, the Tate Modern. We viewed a photography exhibit by an American women artist, Roni. Did we understand half of it, no, but did I get a kick out of seeing stills of Phillip from Guiding Light, yes indeed.
We made our way slowly down the various levels of the Tate modern and made our way outside to find a little lunch. In keeping with teh English tradition we passed by the Globe Theatre and headed for the Anchor, on eof the oldest pubs in England, apparently it was a watering hole for Ole Shakespeare. Where we proceeded to order fish and ships, and all the while my body screaming to be saved from the batter fried fish and fries, but when in Rome.
We finished off our meals on the terrace of the pub and proceeded downstairs where we headed across the Millenium Bridge, where we would find ourselves in front of St. paul's cather\dral another important point of interest on our tour of London. We parted ways with Cheryl and proceeded to the Barbocan Center to meet up with Lara, for a sweet break before we retraced our steps back to the Thames to view the Tower Bridge.
Several hundred photos later we were heading back home and preparing for our last evening home. Once in the tube, I happened to sit next to a lovely Indian man who just happened to be born in Nairobi and who was a real treat to meet as he spoke so highly of the city and wished us well. At dinner that evening at the Banana tree, we ended up with a brazilian server, signs everywhere that our trip was going to be a fantastic one.
We returned home to find Sanj watching 24, we joined in and fell asleep within minutes after we laid of heads to rest. Only a few hours left before our big day.
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