We left for Kiwaiyu on Saturday April 4th. Julie, Cleber and I took off into the friendly skies and 1 h and 50 minutes later we were in paradise.
The take off was an adventure in this 13 seater, needless to say I didn't even hint to my mother just what type of airplane we going to be boarding as she would have enjoyed the wait for my return. And what a mother doesn't know can't hurt her right, mom? The pilot had a special suprise for us in that he flew right over the National Park which was filled with animals including ostrichs and giraffes. The view of Kenya from the air is truly breathtaking as you can see for miles across the plains. We flew up along the coast and viewed both Mt. Kenya and Kilamanjaro from our seats. After regaining my breath, I was truly just able to sit back and relax. And then we landed. The airport was a sandy stretch of land with a small open air hut. No lights, no airline employees and certainly no tarmac which would prove our demise come our departure. We exited the plane and got into our waiting landrover only to be taken 1 km away to a waiting boat. It was by far the most expensive "taxi" ride as it cost 4000 schillings, roughly 40 euros. When they got you they got you you just grin and bear it. The motor boat took us to Mike's camp where we would be staying a few hours to allow for the tide to rise so that we could eventually arrive at our camp, Champli. The first thing we did after having descended the boat, was to race to the other side of the mountain to go snorkeling along the coral reef. Julie is a mad woman about water- she swims every morning without fail in Nairobi so here was a literal paradise for her and she allowed herself no limits. We were natually little prunes by the time the three day adventure was done. Dinner at Mike's consisted of a table laid out in this open area with candle light and lovely dinner companions, including Mike himslef, Rosie,the wandering blond who was currently working a season, and Dre, who we believe is on a constant vacation and is apparently married to a man with a helicopter. Dinner was a king fish grilled and marinated in this amazing sauce, which of course only tastes as good when you're on a island in the middle of the Indian Ocean. Dinner ended and we were very eager to get to our own camp to call it a night.
With everything reloaded onto the boat we headed out into the night to our camp. It was everything we could have hoped for an then some. It is a community camp run and benefitted by the community of people who live on the island. Simple as it was beautiful due to the nature and animal life that surrounded us. Cleber and I settled into our romantic and luxurious hut and drifted to sleep under the mosquito netting and the sound of the channel waves lapping against the boat in the lagoon. I cannot imagine a more wonderful honeymoon and for all intents and purposes it was to be ours. We had just decided to skip the marriage.
Sunday, 12 April 2009
Lip to Lip with Kelly the Giraffe
Moses, Cleber, Moses #2 and I had a little make-out session with Kelly the Giraffe at the Giraffe center in Karen. The center allows you to get up and close and quite personal with the giraffes and is an experience I'll certainly never forget, nor will you after seeing these photos. They speak volumes. We even had the chance to visit with the male zebra, responsible for the two baby giraffes who were carousing with the other giraffe's in the distance. His name, Jock. Again, a site to behold. Yes, I fed him and yes I was so nervous I squealed. Cleber squealed silently but I could tell in his eyes that even he felt totally belittled by this majestic animal. Imagine the tallest man in the world, times by two and his head in dipping into your hand with a very large black tongue (whose saliva is a natural antiseptic).
Introducing Siyana
Cleber and I had heard about an elephant orphanage in Karen, so at the end of teh day we made our way with Amos to discover this nursery for abandoned elephants and rhinos. We arrived and were greeted by a lovely man who naturally proposed us to visit the nursery, as well as the opportunity to adopt an elephant as the entrance fee just also happened to be directly associated with the adoption fee. Cleber and I enthusiatically agreed and set off to choose our child. We were brought to a small open area where the elephants woulf be passing through as they were coming in to eat. Within moments a scuffle was heard and about 9 small elephants charged our way and did a little turn about as if on the cat walk and made their way to their stalls which they all knew by heart. Then the older elephants appeared, ever though only 2-3 yrs old they still gave my heart a jump. The orphange is a part of the National Park and the workers spend the night in the stalls feeding the animals throughout the night. These small elephants are up to 2 years old, any time after 2 years they are then transfered to another area where they are slowly re-introduced into the wild. In a small pen, 3 2-3yr old elephants were gathered together and being fed by the park workers, they apparently are kept together as if separated they begin to cry. It's in this pen where we fell in love with Siyana a young 2 year old elephant who had been found at 1 month in a well. A hyena had bitten off a portion of her trunk as it was the only piece of her to remain above ground. Needless to say we welcome her into our home and are hearts... We have pictures so please enjoy them once we get them posted.
Cleber for President
it was if we were driving in a motorcade, no matter what form of transport, whether taxi, or land rover, Cleber managed a smile and a wave for everyone he passed. It was truly as if he was campaigning for Mr. Kenya. And the most wonderful part is that people waved back. Another defining moment came when we visited the Kiberra slums, which apparently hold a quarter pf Nairobi's inhabitants. And where Uniqueco sources flip flops which clog up the surrounding areas and the paths within the slum. It is located at the base of what once was a thriving Ddm, where a sailing club once flourished and boats could be heard trailing waterskiers. Today it is entirely covered in trach and litter. You traverse the area holding your breath, not necessarily due to the smell but trying to remain light in your feet as you can feel teh ground beneath you swelling as if on a waterbed. Cleber was the pied piper and he engaged with the children as if they were his own to care for and protect. Once he started taking photos he was mobbed and all the children were desperate to see themselves on the "big screen' and to offer themselves, all the while posing and laughing. Anytime Cleber tried to take a serious photo, he would have his posse of children who would line up so very close to the shot that he frequently had about 50 extra arms and legs to maneuver about. I felt very honored to have been allowed to visit the home of these Kenyan's, who although very poor, were extremely generous and kind to us. One family invited me to view teir dinner which had not yet been cooked but consisted of a plate of catfish which I cannot and do not which to know where they caught it. Babies, everywhere, but also plenty of smiles.
We were accompanied by Nadeen, Edward and James, whose brother lived in Kiberra and who led the effort to gather up the thongs. Of which they collect about 600kilos a month. It just goes to show you the extent of this particular pollutant and the importance of uniqueco's work. by no means is this the only pollution that you find lying along the paths and open areas, there are plastic bottles and bags that would literally cause you to stop wanting to use them ever again, I know that I will certainly change my habits in order to eliminate one more plastic bottle landing in a trash heap.
Kiberra was not the only slum that we visited but it certainly stood out as it was most certainly an unfit place for any human to live. Dagareth was another such slum but it resembled more a flea market and the individuals living there were very aggressive and were not amused that Cleber wanted to take photos of their feet nor their stands selling flip flops.
We had one more adventure left before heading home....
We were accompanied by Nadeen, Edward and James, whose brother lived in Kiberra and who led the effort to gather up the thongs. Of which they collect about 600kilos a month. It just goes to show you the extent of this particular pollutant and the importance of uniqueco's work. by no means is this the only pollution that you find lying along the paths and open areas, there are plastic bottles and bags that would literally cause you to stop wanting to use them ever again, I know that I will certainly change my habits in order to eliminate one more plastic bottle landing in a trash heap.
Kiberra was not the only slum that we visited but it certainly stood out as it was most certainly an unfit place for any human to live. Dagareth was another such slum but it resembled more a flea market and the individuals living there were very aggressive and were not amused that Cleber wanted to take photos of their feet nor their stands selling flip flops.
We had one more adventure left before heading home....
Smile you're in Kenya
After 8 hours of the most restful airline flight that I've ever taken in my 35 years, we arrived in Kenya. After realizng that we were in the wrong line we get into the appropriate line for those "who were smart enough to get their visa ahea of time" and decended the escalator only to be greeted with a very large and colorful sign, which read "Smile, you're in Kenya". So I did. And I had every reason to do so as just as we were approaching the luggage belt, here comes my bag as if on cue.
We were greeted at the airport by Amos, Mr. Smiley's brother who was supposed to pick us up. I was so hoping to be pichked up by Smiley, but it was not to be. We however had a chance to see Smiley in a drive by hello, and he looked like Alphapha, with a very bright smile.
Amos took us directly to Milele, in Karen, an upscale suburb,where Julie Church lived, and where we were to stay before leaving for the northern islands near Somalia. Milele is her parents home that she now lives in with her husband Edward. Julie is of course the inspiration and the founder of Uniqueco and a little bird of a woman with a tiger's spirit and energy. I was so looking forward to meeting this woman who I had spent hours and days emailing and speaking to on the phone.
She arrived and she was everything I expected and then some. So warm and so kind. I found out that she is a fourth generation Kenyan and her family coincidentally lives all very near to her, aka next door and across the street. For your information she had trained as a marine biologist, and is passionate about marine life and the role that humans can play in saving further destruction to oceans and coastlines, before landing rather unexpectantly in her role at Uniqueco.
Julie informed us that we would actually be staying at their house which was located across the street. A beautiful A framed cottage, with a large sitting room, and a beautiful four poster bed. We had our very own Kenyan man to attend to us and our needs. His name Moses, his skin black as the night and with a beaming smile and a muical ear. He and I recorder a little ditty for you that will be attached shortly. Note to all of you: This was totally spontaneous and unrehearsed and yes I do make a complete fool of myself, but hey Smile, I'm in Kenya. We laso had Simon and Stephan as night gaurds which was a pleasure but certainly lent a 'oh my lord I'm so out of my element' feel to the whole experience.
We put down our belongings, and didn't waste a moment before heading to Marulo Studios where Julie runs Uniqueco and where we were to have lunch at Bliss Cafe. Whe you arrive, it looks like a small white house surrounded by bougainvillea and there is a small gift shop with hand made items including a large collection of the items made by the artists of Uniqueco. We sat down to lunch on this lovely terrace, where we nibbled on bruscetta and a lovely pear and ginger drink. It seems that fruit juices were a popular beverage on most every menu we found. Needless to say we took in our fare share of vitamins. Towards the end of our lunch we were greeted by Nadeen who recently joined Julie as head of Production and he was to assist us in understanding the lay of the land. We spent a few hours taking photos of the artisans working on various pieces that were bound for orders that had come in from around the world. We had teh chance to actually meet and speak with many of those who were working there and learn a little about each and how they ended up working at Uniqeco. Most all came to be here through connections whether through friends or family having been recommended. However, each and every one of these artists are indeed skilled and thus add tremendous value to the creation and beauty of the Uniqueco collection, whethere a flower mobile or a sculpted giraffe, this is not an amateur operation, these pieces are museum worthy. I do hope that you'll ask me to show you the pieces that we're bringing back - I am so very proud to have had the opportunity to meet these artists, and I hope that you will consider ordering from their website, www.uniqueco.com.
After a very busy afternoon, we were invited to join Julie and her husband for dinner at their house where we would continue to dine during our stay, and for which we were extremely grateful as they are truly a magical couple.
We were greeted at the airport by Amos, Mr. Smiley's brother who was supposed to pick us up. I was so hoping to be pichked up by Smiley, but it was not to be. We however had a chance to see Smiley in a drive by hello, and he looked like Alphapha, with a very bright smile.
Amos took us directly to Milele, in Karen, an upscale suburb,where Julie Church lived, and where we were to stay before leaving for the northern islands near Somalia. Milele is her parents home that she now lives in with her husband Edward. Julie is of course the inspiration and the founder of Uniqueco and a little bird of a woman with a tiger's spirit and energy. I was so looking forward to meeting this woman who I had spent hours and days emailing and speaking to on the phone.
She arrived and she was everything I expected and then some. So warm and so kind. I found out that she is a fourth generation Kenyan and her family coincidentally lives all very near to her, aka next door and across the street. For your information she had trained as a marine biologist, and is passionate about marine life and the role that humans can play in saving further destruction to oceans and coastlines, before landing rather unexpectantly in her role at Uniqueco.
Julie informed us that we would actually be staying at their house which was located across the street. A beautiful A framed cottage, with a large sitting room, and a beautiful four poster bed. We had our very own Kenyan man to attend to us and our needs. His name Moses, his skin black as the night and with a beaming smile and a muical ear. He and I recorder a little ditty for you that will be attached shortly. Note to all of you: This was totally spontaneous and unrehearsed and yes I do make a complete fool of myself, but hey Smile, I'm in Kenya. We laso had Simon and Stephan as night gaurds which was a pleasure but certainly lent a 'oh my lord I'm so out of my element' feel to the whole experience.
We put down our belongings, and didn't waste a moment before heading to Marulo Studios where Julie runs Uniqueco and where we were to have lunch at Bliss Cafe. Whe you arrive, it looks like a small white house surrounded by bougainvillea and there is a small gift shop with hand made items including a large collection of the items made by the artists of Uniqueco. We sat down to lunch on this lovely terrace, where we nibbled on bruscetta and a lovely pear and ginger drink. It seems that fruit juices were a popular beverage on most every menu we found. Needless to say we took in our fare share of vitamins. Towards the end of our lunch we were greeted by Nadeen who recently joined Julie as head of Production and he was to assist us in understanding the lay of the land. We spent a few hours taking photos of the artisans working on various pieces that were bound for orders that had come in from around the world. We had teh chance to actually meet and speak with many of those who were working there and learn a little about each and how they ended up working at Uniqeco. Most all came to be here through connections whether through friends or family having been recommended. However, each and every one of these artists are indeed skilled and thus add tremendous value to the creation and beauty of the Uniqueco collection, whethere a flower mobile or a sculpted giraffe, this is not an amateur operation, these pieces are museum worthy. I do hope that you'll ask me to show you the pieces that we're bringing back - I am so very proud to have had the opportunity to meet these artists, and I hope that you will consider ordering from their website, www.uniqueco.com.
After a very busy afternoon, we were invited to join Julie and her husband for dinner at their house where we would continue to dine during our stay, and for which we were extremely grateful as they are truly a magical couple.
Thursday, 2 April 2009
The big Day
I won't bore you with the details, BUT, it was a first class day all the way. Complete with lunch at Harrod's. But I've got to tell you about the BEST part.
We arrived at Heathrow in plenty of time, and proceeded to the Virgin Atlantic check-in area. We approached a lovely woman who signaled to us that we should proceed directly to the machines to scan in our passports, after a few unsuccessful attempts it was apparent that was not working. At this point I hadn't really paid attention to the type of tickets that our fabulous travel agent had reserved for us, BUT they were Premium, Business Class! By any name it has a lovely ring to it EXCEPT that there had been a change. WE HAD BEEN UPGRADED TO UPPER CLASS!!! I was stunned and had the pleasure of enjoying it 2x over, as I had to translate for Cleber, as he definitely sensed that something was happeninf\g but had no idea what it was. So needless to say we passed through all the VIP entrances, the security check was never so enjoyable and made our way to a little resto to grab a drink - as we weren't cool enough to be let into the lounge as we were merely upgrades, but who cares! We were flying first class!!! This trip was definitely starting off well.
Champagne was called for, and between the adorable staff, our reclining beds, we were off. 8 hours later we arrived in Nairobi only to be greeted with a sign that read, "Smile you're in Kenya". And that we were from ear to ear.
Thanks to Linda Contract of Contract Travel, based in Los Angeles, who was our fearless travel agent and recently inducted into a Travel Agent Hall of Fame organization. I can personally vouch as to why! Congrats Linda!
We arrived at Heathrow in plenty of time, and proceeded to the Virgin Atlantic check-in area. We approached a lovely woman who signaled to us that we should proceed directly to the machines to scan in our passports, after a few unsuccessful attempts it was apparent that was not working. At this point I hadn't really paid attention to the type of tickets that our fabulous travel agent had reserved for us, BUT they were Premium, Business Class! By any name it has a lovely ring to it EXCEPT that there had been a change. WE HAD BEEN UPGRADED TO UPPER CLASS!!! I was stunned and had the pleasure of enjoying it 2x over, as I had to translate for Cleber, as he definitely sensed that something was happeninf\g but had no idea what it was. So needless to say we passed through all the VIP entrances, the security check was never so enjoyable and made our way to a little resto to grab a drink - as we weren't cool enough to be let into the lounge as we were merely upgrades, but who cares! We were flying first class!!! This trip was definitely starting off well.
Champagne was called for, and between the adorable staff, our reclining beds, we were off. 8 hours later we arrived in Nairobi only to be greeted with a sign that read, "Smile you're in Kenya". And that we were from ear to ear.
Thanks to Linda Contract of Contract Travel, based in Los Angeles, who was our fearless travel agent and recently inducted into a Travel Agent Hall of Fame organization. I can personally vouch as to why! Congrats Linda!
Monday, March 30 2009
Today was museum day with Cheryl, otherwise known as teh Tate to Tate. We began by meeting her in Sloan Square, where she lives with her fiance Ryan in a charming one bedroom garden apartment with their dog Reggie, a handsome King Charles Spaniel. After arriving a wee bit in advance we were greeting by a wet haired Cheryl who was still in the midst of getting ready. She gave us a little tour and we set out to get some breakfast while Cheryl prepared herself and we awaited the arrival of Ryan and Reggie from the vet. W e ended up at a restaurant cafe, called the Botanist, which was recommended by Cheryl. It was every bit as stylish and cool as Cheryl promised. We began to order a ligth farre of croissants and pain aux raisins, but I happened to remember Cleber's request to try a typical English breakfast and so we scratched the breakfast a a la francaise and went straight for the artery clogging fare. I however excused my self from the experience and ordered granola and yogurt.
The English breakfast arrived momentarily and was most certainly the classiest presentation of lard and oil that I'd ever laid eyes on, it included scrambled eggs, several types of sausage, toast, portabello mushroom and bacon. Glorious, almost made me wish that I'd ordered it myself.
Once finished, we headed back to Cheryl's for the much anticipated presentation of Reggie who we had never met before. And he was sooo worth it. What an absolute love, and wth plenty of kisses to share. We could hardly tear oursleves apart but culture was calling. We all piled in to Ryan's Saab and set up top down to enjoy some indoor time, much to the chagrin of Cleber who could only dream of walking outside and taking photos. But it was the Tate!
We did the whirlwind tour of teh Tate Britain and got so lucky having caught the ferry just in time to continue to our next port of call, the Tate Modern. We viewed a photography exhibit by an American women artist, Roni. Did we understand half of it, no, but did I get a kick out of seeing stills of Phillip from Guiding Light, yes indeed.
We made our way slowly down the various levels of the Tate modern and made our way outside to find a little lunch. In keeping with teh English tradition we passed by the Globe Theatre and headed for the Anchor, on eof the oldest pubs in England, apparently it was a watering hole for Ole Shakespeare. Where we proceeded to order fish and ships, and all the while my body screaming to be saved from the batter fried fish and fries, but when in Rome.
We finished off our meals on the terrace of the pub and proceeded downstairs where we headed across the Millenium Bridge, where we would find ourselves in front of St. paul's cather\dral another important point of interest on our tour of London. We parted ways with Cheryl and proceeded to the Barbocan Center to meet up with Lara, for a sweet break before we retraced our steps back to the Thames to view the Tower Bridge.
Several hundred photos later we were heading back home and preparing for our last evening home. Once in the tube, I happened to sit next to a lovely Indian man who just happened to be born in Nairobi and who was a real treat to meet as he spoke so highly of the city and wished us well. At dinner that evening at the Banana tree, we ended up with a brazilian server, signs everywhere that our trip was going to be a fantastic one.
We returned home to find Sanj watching 24, we joined in and fell asleep within minutes after we laid of heads to rest. Only a few hours left before our big day.
The English breakfast arrived momentarily and was most certainly the classiest presentation of lard and oil that I'd ever laid eyes on, it included scrambled eggs, several types of sausage, toast, portabello mushroom and bacon. Glorious, almost made me wish that I'd ordered it myself.
Once finished, we headed back to Cheryl's for the much anticipated presentation of Reggie who we had never met before. And he was sooo worth it. What an absolute love, and wth plenty of kisses to share. We could hardly tear oursleves apart but culture was calling. We all piled in to Ryan's Saab and set up top down to enjoy some indoor time, much to the chagrin of Cleber who could only dream of walking outside and taking photos. But it was the Tate!
We did the whirlwind tour of teh Tate Britain and got so lucky having caught the ferry just in time to continue to our next port of call, the Tate Modern. We viewed a photography exhibit by an American women artist, Roni. Did we understand half of it, no, but did I get a kick out of seeing stills of Phillip from Guiding Light, yes indeed.
We made our way slowly down the various levels of the Tate modern and made our way outside to find a little lunch. In keeping with teh English tradition we passed by the Globe Theatre and headed for the Anchor, on eof the oldest pubs in England, apparently it was a watering hole for Ole Shakespeare. Where we proceeded to order fish and ships, and all the while my body screaming to be saved from the batter fried fish and fries, but when in Rome.
We finished off our meals on the terrace of the pub and proceeded downstairs where we headed across the Millenium Bridge, where we would find ourselves in front of St. paul's cather\dral another important point of interest on our tour of London. We parted ways with Cheryl and proceeded to the Barbocan Center to meet up with Lara, for a sweet break before we retraced our steps back to the Thames to view the Tower Bridge.
Several hundred photos later we were heading back home and preparing for our last evening home. Once in the tube, I happened to sit next to a lovely Indian man who just happened to be born in Nairobi and who was a real treat to meet as he spoke so highly of the city and wished us well. At dinner that evening at the Banana tree, we ended up with a brazilian server, signs everywhere that our trip was going to be a fantastic one.
We returned home to find Sanj watching 24, we joined in and fell asleep within minutes after we laid of heads to rest. Only a few hours left before our big day.
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